My Evolution

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Born a gentleman, wrought a erudite and cultured into a fashion disciple and critic.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Louboutin's Still Life Stilettos


Christian Louboutin's sumptuous Spring/Summer Two-thousand-nine collection woos shoe lovers with antique charm, with his still life ad campaign proclaiming his shoes as timeless fixtures of fashion history.


Without question, fashion and art have long since merged, perhaps most notably to the contemporary follower with Yves Saint Laurent at helm with his Composition dresses fashioned after Mondrain's Composition with Yellow, Blue, and Red (1937-42) pieces.


Though, since then, fashion disciples have been long affected with grand gestures of art directors hurling viewers into what they imagine as modernity. Yet, Creative Director Nicolas Menu decided something different, more demure, and equally, perhaps more stunning, for Louboutin's Spring/ Summer two-thousand-nine campaign--still life, here particularly, Dutch Golden Age paintings.

Using the pattern, texture and shape of the shoes as a guide, Menu alongside, Stylist Amandine Moine and seen through the renowned still life photographer Peter Lippmann's lens, creates stunning pastiches steeped in elegance complimenting the shoes aesthetics while imbuing them with personality.



From a clam sipping empress hosting a dinner party in her ruffled front silver strapped pumps to the dainty gardening goddesses who's stilettos overflow with pink rose petals and bag lavished in red rose petals compliment the classic red soles a signature of Loubontin's creations, acclaim his followers with whimsical narratives encapsulate the glamour and effortless style that marks Louboutin's brand.

Prada: Inspired by the Ancients

Stunningly predictable, Prada's Womenswear Spring/ Summer 2009 ad campaign envisions itself through Italy's famed ancient Greek past, reinterpreting classic battle scenes chiseled into the pediments found throughout Athens and Rome.

"The embattled office interns," as I’ve deemed, frames Miuccia Prada idea for the season's campaign. The vigorously gesturing models appear frozen in actions as their calm, yet fierce faces, glare at their competition as they all vie for the presumed one coveted position.
Steven Meisel marvelously captured the strife of these models through his expert lens. The bas-relief style flattens the actions, however, the upward-looking camera lens dramatizes their actions and monumentizing these office squabbles into epic battles seemingly ripped from the Parthenon itself.
The appearance of the models further emphasizes the antique theme as their faces have light powdery make-up like those of Grecian women who never left the confines of their palaces, along with their long dramatic hair, always tidily pulled up into a rolls. Yet, these modern remakes infuse color and irony to the historic gestures claiming style and excess as their purpose.

The elegantly crinkled metallic attire draping the glamazons appoint the collection with a classic grandeur famed in ancient Greece and typical to Prada. Ancient royal contemporaries were known for their garish displays of wealth emulated in these metallic ensembles. These polished and highly resolute metallic pieces are striking, yet, are not over-saturated in their styling and photographic arrangement.

The simple silhouettes created by the a-line dresses find home in this period, mimicking the himation, peplos and chiton chic goddess of the time. The off-the-shoulder draping and the plunging backs softened with an excess of crinkled fabrics are matched with dangling silk straps composing the ensemble. Particular to this collection, however, are the natural lines composing the ensembles. Largely remiss of the typically rigid and highly tailored lines signature of Prada, here pointed collars and exacting skirt hems are relaxed and rounded by ruching and crinkling.
Ironic here, though, are the smathering of patterned ensembles who defy the collections aesthetic and reinterpret the labels staple-- rigid lines. Though these patterned piece are constructed with rigid lines, they are not clean ones. The patterned blood red dresses, snake-skin skirts, alongside other prints do indeed have definite lines, however, these would-be constructive lines are purposefully flaunted, presenting asymmetric lines that crash down the side of dresses and ripple down the side of skirts brilliantly. All atop magnificent platform silhouettes.

The collection is striking, despite the predictable gaze. Prada’s daring collection again shows progress from the austerely chic aesthetic so frequented before Miuccia Prada’s direction. In fact, her brilliant creative high jinks typified by duality and contradictions, have catapulted the label from quiet elegance to clamoring couturier.


Sunday, July 12, 2009

Relaxing Burberry


Whether standing indolently among fellow green-thumbs or collapsed over a chair with green ardor, the waspy Burberry models appear exhausted by their chicness amid the brush of their exclusive greenhouse. Tiring over their Yellow Irises and Cypripedium Renate Pastels the models adorn Burberry's signature trench and classic nova-checked garments, purposing the relaxed silhouettes of the exhaustively chic activity, grounding the Spring 09's creations.

A preview of Burberry's spring/summer 2009 ad campaign entitled "Garden People" plants a tranquility and tradition in the posh Petersham Nurseries outside London. The lush locale presents a more subdued Burberry; as its relaxed silhouettes and earthen greens are even more demurred by patch-work crusher hats and asymmetric stone-clustered necklaces positing an urban quality to polished labels repertoire. Particularly the relaxed brim of the once structured bucket hats, now languished crusher hats, seem stepping beyond traditional British status articulations and more into urban influenced network as its clothing "devolove" into more functional pieces whose acute detail distinguish its articulation from commoners. Yet, within the deconstructed horticultural aesthetic lies the pomp and circumstance revered by Creative Director Christopher Bailey. Culturing these atypical Burberry pieces his clear, bright colours and acute, studied details he rethinks the years of Burberry branding, placing emphasis on perceptive styling rather than hackneyed aesthetic via this updated hippy look.